Delectable Bucatini with What Did You Say That Was?

Thanks to The New York Times Food section, I’ve just made three delightful discoveries.

The first is the supper I made last night, a fresh, inventive dish of pasta—easy, nutritious and molto delizioso:

“Bill, on a scale of one to ten, where would you place tonight’s dish?”

“Ten.”

The recipe online for “Brown Butter Bucatini with Charred Cabbage”* caught my eye because of its blurb—“Charred cabbage brings a complex combination of flavors, from savory to bitter to sweet, to this simple but satisfying weeknight pasta…” (I believe “weeknight” here indicates “quick and easy,” not “just for the family…” I think it an ideal dish for company.)

Our sixteen-year-old not-a-great-vegetable-guy Cameron adores pasta and I’m always on the lookout for dishes to make for him—and something with a nutritious vegetable in it, wow.

Did Cameron like it? Three big helpings.

Cooked cabbage is immensely nutritious. One of the appeals of the dish is that if you don’t mention the word cabbage when serving, “I-hate-cabbage” types would never guess. The delicate leaves—particularly if you use a savoy cabbage—meld into a delicious mantle.

The second and third delightful discoveries accompanying the recipe are its source, Ham El-Waylly and his wife Sohla. Both are chefs, vibrant, charming, immensely creative. I found they have a You-Tube cooking show. “Mystery Menu” is as out of the ordinary as they are—and addictive… Couldn’t stop flipping through episodes.

But I’m here to give you my take on El-Waylly’s bucatini. I did make a couple of changes due to whim and what I had on hand, and I think they worked. I exchanged walnuts for pecans—nuttier flavor and less sweet–and Spanish Manchego (sheeps milk) cheese for Italian Parmesan. Actually, I feel you could use any cheese you like. I happened to have Manchego and its nutty flavor perfectly complemented the walnuts, toasted cabbage, and browned butter.

Certainly you could make this dish with any pasta, but I think El-Waylly’s choice of bucatini was inspired. I’d forgotten about bucatini—a Roman favorite. “Buco” is Italian for hole and the pasta has a hole in the center—each strand is a long skinny tube.** It’s thick to an ideal degree (I love remembering Italians have been making pasta for centuries…they’ve got every shape just right). I read bucatini is especially good paired with thicker sauces such as this one. I noticed bucatini cooks faster than spaghetti, being bi-walled.

I’m glad I impulsively brought home two packages…I’m going to be cooking more soon.

And for sure I’m going to be on the qui vive for more from Ham El-Waylly.

Delectable Easy Bucatini with What Did You Say That Was?
From a recipe by Ham El-Waylly
Makes 4 servings

1-1/2 pounds green cabbage, preferably Savoy and organic
Salt, preferably flakes, about 1 tablespoon
2 tablespoons avocado oil or other neutral-flavored oil
3 quarts water for the pasta
12 ounces bucatini pasta, preferably Italian and organic
6 ounces Manchego cheese, coarsely grated
Small bunch Italian parsley leaves and thin stems, roughly chopped, about ½ cup
Freshly ground black pepper to taste—lots!
1 stick unsalted butter, preferably organic (may be cold)
About 3 ounces (½ cup) coarsely chopped crunchy walnuts—more if you like
More coarse salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Cut the head of cabbage through the center in quarters and remove the cores. Slice the leaves thinly (1/8-inch). Mix in a good pinch of salt.

In a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat, heat the oil then add the cabbage, spreading evenly. Set the timer for 25 minutes and sauté the shreds, stirring thoroughly with a wooden spatula or spoon every few minutes, so pieces here and there will be charred.

While the cabbage sautés, bring the water in a large pot (5-quarts) to a boil…stir in a scant 1 tablespoon salt. Reduce heat and let the water simmer while the cabbage finishes.

When the timer rings, grind over the cabbage a good bit of black pepper, mix in, taste for salt, turn the cabbage into a bowl. Wipe out the skillet, return it to the turned off burner.

Now add the bucatini to the boiling water, stir well so every strand is separated. Set the timer for 1 minute less than the package directs. Stir every few minutes.

Now is the time to grate the cheese, chop the parsley.

Next, medium heat under the big skillet while you cut in the butter then add the walnuts. Stir frequently with a wooden spatula or spoon until the butter turns golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Keep heat at medium.

Bucatini should be ready…lift strands with a pasta fork or strainer directly from the pot to the skillet carrying pasta-cooking water along with it. You’ll want at least 2 cups of the water for the sauce. Simmer 3 to 5 minutes, stirring gently, thoroughly.

Sprinkle over half the cheese and all the parsley and stir vigorously until the sauce is evenly distributed through the pasta. Add more pasta water if the sauce seems skimpy. Grind over more pepper and taste for salt. Sprinkle over the remaining cheese and at once bring to the table in the skillet.

* https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1025324-brown-butter-bucatini-with-charred-cabbage
**Wiki dutifully notes bucatini can be used as a biodegradable drinking straw. Why not.

 

 

 

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